David Abraham, Madhu Jain and Rina Dhaka on how they have incorporated traditional elements to make a statement at the AIFW
Giving their passion for handwoven fabric a new edge, veteran couturiers David Abraham, Madhu Jain and Rina Dhaka are creating outfits that appeal to the young. With androgynous fashion finding currency and Make in India becoming a socio-political reality, the three seasoned players have created a blend of past and present for the Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW), starting this evening.
See now, buy now!
Abraham will showcase how on a day-to-day basis people can access functional clothing suitable for Indian climate. The catalyst for creating this collection was watching women airlines employees looking uncomfortable in their suits at airports.
“It is high time we realise that our climatic conditions are totally different from European cities, which inspire most of our fashion. 40 degree is a reality in Delhi and jackets make the wearer distinctly uncomfortable. So we are deriving our jacket shapes from traditional cuts like choga, jamat and see how we can make them light and easy so that they can be worn over a shirt and trousers.”
Going against the Fall/Winter theme, in the show, “Back to Work”, Abraham along with Rakesh Thakore, has designed clothes keeping in mind the summer season as he wants to be in sync with the trend prevailing in international fashion weeks . “A change is beginning to happen internationally which is based on the concept of see now, buy now. It is a new marketing trend which wants to capitalise on interest generated in the media immediately. Three months after the collection comes out, customers get confused. Big designer brands like Tom Ford are following this. Our collection would be made available within a few weeks at pop up stores in Chennai, Delhi, Bangalore.”
Abraham will give a push to handloom in myriad avatars. “We are exploring whether it is possible to take handloom fabric and move it from traditional to executive space. Rather than traditional kurta, we will showcase how handloom can be used for shirts and jackets. We are using double ikat and natural dye block printing.”
Abraham will demonstrate his strength in androgynous fashion. “I am creating a collection good for people of both genders. So we have created handwoven fabrics and developed special fabrics with weavers of Phulia, Mangalagiri, Vijayawada and Barmer. Personally, we want to say that handloom jackets can work for men and women. A banker might not wear it but somebody from creative field will. We wanted to go back from where we started and see whether we can create a fabric story which unites men and women with a common colours, motifs and create a whole range of fabrics which would be appropriate for this kind of clothing.”
Retrospective
Madhu Jain, a craft revivalist as much as a couturier, will showcase a rich tapestry of weaves that she has presented over three decades in India and abroad. The show titled “Celebrating 30 years of Madhu Jain” will virtually reflect her lifelong journey in crafts.
To reach out to the youth, this handloom specialist is making an ingenious effort. “I have given a twist to blouses. If blouses are funky, the young generation gets interested. I have always used weaves as an embellishment. This time I have given interesting variations on sleeves, necks. We will be showcasing exquisite heritage pieces like rare embroidery from Central Asia and finest mirror work. Some khadi saris will also be showcased.”
Madhu has made clothes suitable for Indian climate. “ Today’s fashionistas are rediscovering textiles made from natural fibres. I have incorporated eye-catching contrasts and bold designs in my ikat collection. My Moroccan pants teamed up with little tunics should appeal to youth as should my nature-derived embellishments and buttons made from shells, rudrakash and seeds.”
Inspiration is from overseas but everything has been made by indigenous weavers. “I have incorporated unique and absolutely stunning Central Asian embroidery in some of my outfits, which have been crafted in tribal villages. My kalamkari range, done entirely in natural inks, draws heavily from nature and the animal kingdom. I have also included a personal favourite: the Tree of Life.”
To arrive at some of the weave blends, Madhu has experimented with the heavy Thai ikat. “It has been rendered on silk and fashioned into a lighter thread count suitable for Indian weather conditions. In Thai ikat, inspiration is from abroad but it has been made here. So even if the pattern may be Uzbeki, it is all made in India. Similarly, we will be showcasing little kurtis and Moroccan pants made in Indian handloom.”
Make in India
For Rina Dhaka “Make in India” fillip being given by the FDCI holds special significance. “As a designer, I have ideas and research based on many parts of the world, but we manufacture it in India, be it techniques of prints, digital embroidery, hand embroidery and laser cutting.”
Androgynous fashion will be explored in an interesting, innovative way. “Menswear will be showcased to honour male models, who have been selected through a contest. I have created a sweat shirt kind of look for male models who will be on the catwalk. My menswear is going to be more androgynous than my women’s wear. The reason being that we are making the collection for next winter.”
Working with Jharkhand weavers has been a creative exercise for Rina, who has worked with textiles of the State, to create modern funky outfits. “ As Jharkhand is the theme, there will be inspiration from Chhau dancers yet the look is modern. I have explored traditional elements with modern dying and frayed edges. We have used tussar silk because it has a good hand fall.”
Illustrating how she has given varied looks to some of her outfits which would be presented collectively under Jharcraft – an initiative of Jharkhand Silk Textile and Handicraft Development Corporationas Jharkhand is the partner State –the seasoned designer says, an ankle length printed dress with loose sleeves has been created. “Here I have done patchwork on top of the garment and sleeves and then embellished it with sequins.”
Giving their passion for handwoven fabric a new edge, veteran couturiers David Abraham, Madhu Jain and Rina Dhaka are creating outfits that appeal to the young. With androgynous fashion finding currency and Make in India becoming a socio-political reality, the three seasoned players have created a blend of past and present for the Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW), starting this evening.
See now, buy now!
Abraham will showcase how on a day-to-day basis people can access functional clothing suitable for Indian climate. The catalyst for creating this collection was watching women airlines employees looking uncomfortable in their suits at airports.
“It is high time we realise that our climatic conditions are totally different from European cities, which inspire most of our fashion. 40 degree is a reality in Delhi and jackets make the wearer distinctly uncomfortable. So we are deriving our jacket shapes from traditional cuts like choga, jamat and see how we can make them light and easy so that they can be worn over a shirt and trousers.”
Going against the Fall/Winter theme, in the show, “Back to Work”, Abraham along with Rakesh Thakore, has designed clothes keeping in mind the summer season as he wants to be in sync with the trend prevailing in international fashion weeks . “A change is beginning to happen internationally which is based on the concept of see now, buy now. It is a new marketing trend which wants to capitalise on interest generated in the media immediately. Three months after the collection comes out, customers get confused. Big designer brands like Tom Ford are following this. Our collection would be made available within a few weeks at pop up stores in Chennai, Delhi, Bangalore.”
Abraham will give a push to handloom in myriad avatars. “We are exploring whether it is possible to take handloom fabric and move it from traditional to executive space. Rather than traditional kurta, we will showcase how handloom can be used for shirts and jackets. We are using double ikat and natural dye block printing.”
Abraham will demonstrate his strength in androgynous fashion. “I am creating a collection good for people of both genders. So we have created handwoven fabrics and developed special fabrics with weavers of Phulia, Mangalagiri, Vijayawada and Barmer. Personally, we want to say that handloom jackets can work for men and women. A banker might not wear it but somebody from creative field will. We wanted to go back from where we started and see whether we can create a fabric story which unites men and women with a common colours, motifs and create a whole range of fabrics which would be appropriate for this kind of clothing.”
Retrospective
Madhu Jain, a craft revivalist as much as a couturier, will showcase a rich tapestry of weaves that she has presented over three decades in India and abroad. The show titled “Celebrating 30 years of Madhu Jain” will virtually reflect her lifelong journey in crafts.
To reach out to the youth, this handloom specialist is making an ingenious effort. “I have given a twist to blouses. If blouses are funky, the young generation gets interested. I have always used weaves as an embellishment. This time I have given interesting variations on sleeves, necks. We will be showcasing exquisite heritage pieces like rare embroidery from Central Asia and finest mirror work. Some khadi saris will also be showcased.”
Madhu has made clothes suitable for Indian climate. “ Today’s fashionistas are rediscovering textiles made from natural fibres. I have incorporated eye-catching contrasts and bold designs in my ikat collection. My Moroccan pants teamed up with little tunics should appeal to youth as should my nature-derived embellishments and buttons made from shells, rudrakash and seeds.”
Inspiration is from overseas but everything has been made by indigenous weavers. “I have incorporated unique and absolutely stunning Central Asian embroidery in some of my outfits, which have been crafted in tribal villages. My kalamkari range, done entirely in natural inks, draws heavily from nature and the animal kingdom. I have also included a personal favourite: the Tree of Life.”
To arrive at some of the weave blends, Madhu has experimented with the heavy Thai ikat. “It has been rendered on silk and fashioned into a lighter thread count suitable for Indian weather conditions. In Thai ikat, inspiration is from abroad but it has been made here. So even if the pattern may be Uzbeki, it is all made in India. Similarly, we will be showcasing little kurtis and Moroccan pants made in Indian handloom.”
Make in India
For Rina Dhaka “Make in India” fillip being given by the FDCI holds special significance. “As a designer, I have ideas and research based on many parts of the world, but we manufacture it in India, be it techniques of prints, digital embroidery, hand embroidery and laser cutting.”
Androgynous fashion will be explored in an interesting, innovative way. “Menswear will be showcased to honour male models, who have been selected through a contest. I have created a sweat shirt kind of look for male models who will be on the catwalk. My menswear is going to be more androgynous than my women’s wear. The reason being that we are making the collection for next winter.”
Working with Jharkhand weavers has been a creative exercise for Rina, who has worked with textiles of the State, to create modern funky outfits. “ As Jharkhand is the theme, there will be inspiration from Chhau dancers yet the look is modern. I have explored traditional elements with modern dying and frayed edges. We have used tussar silk because it has a good hand fall.”
Illustrating how she has given varied looks to some of her outfits which would be presented collectively under Jharcraft – an initiative of Jharkhand Silk Textile and Handicraft Development Corporationas Jharkhand is the partner State –the seasoned designer says, an ankle length printed dress with loose sleeves has been created. “Here I have done patchwork on top of the garment and sleeves and then embellished it with sequins.”
Resource: http://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/Delhi/weaving-a-new-story/article17465449.ece